Incredible Artisan Perfume From Micro-Perfumeries

Anatole Lebreton

 

Whenever we launch a new perfumer, we interview them about their thoughts, experiences, and process of making perfume. Here is the interview with Miguel

 

Bare & Bond:

First of all, what was the inspiration behind the collection of perfumes you curated for this quarterly box?

 

Anatole:

For the latest one, Perfumista, launched last autumn, I was inspired by perfume lovers themselves, those who have supported me from the brand debuts. It’s a kind of tribute to them and to the chypre family of fragrance too.

 

For L’Eau Scandaleuse, tuberose has been the first and main inspiration, the gorgeous absolute and it all came to life when I paired it with a leather accord. The raw materials guided me and I feel like a kind of artist sculpting the materials to get to the core and essential.

 

Grimoire was inspired by a Cistercian abbey I live nearby. The grey stones, the garden beside the main church, old books of incantations…

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Going through each of the three fragrances, what makes them special to you? (e.g. What story do they tell, what mood do the evoke, do they have a specific personality?)

 

Anatole:

Perfumista has a lot of the history of perfumery in it. The rose patchouli accord is a very classical accord (from Aromatic elixir to Voleur de rose) and I twisted it with modern materials. So it tells me the story of this kind of strong yet comfortable and elegant kind of scent. And to me, it’s also a rock and roll scent. Very elegant yet, quite bold.

 

Grimoire, is all about frankincense, and a special kind of incense I discovered from one of my suppliers “Encens cœur” slightly spicy that inspired me and it was paired with lavender and basil to recreate the idea of those old abbeys where monks where also gardening.

 

L’Eau Scandaleuse is precious to me, it’s my second opus and I always see it as the interior of a painter’s studio. It’s a strong personality.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

What kind of activity or occasion do you imagine is best suited to each scent?

 

Anatole:

Perfumista: autumn in a mansion with an English garden. What about tea?

 

L’Eau Scandaleuse: visiting New York, big cities, museums.

 

Grimoire: or day to day wear for work yuppies or meditative days alone.

 

But really, my pleasure is when the wearers invent their own story and their own best suited moments.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Can you talk about the key notes and accords in each of the three scents? In other words, what might jump out at our subscribers when they wear them and how do the notes work together to form this perfume?

 

Anatole:

Perfumista: the key accord is a woody rose, patchouli and rose (adorned with jasmine and cedar) and fruity top notes of pear and plum. It’s a symphony, all is blended so it takes the wearer on a journey.

 

Grimoire: Frankincense of course and basenotes of old books, with yellowing pages. The top is fresher with an opening on the garden, lavender and basil.

 

L’Eau Scandaleuse, a dance of tuberose and leather on a bed of oakmoss. The rather disturbing notes of fresh flesh of the tuberose are going very well with the dry skin/ flesh leather. It’s animalic with castoreum and musky mossy in the end.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Is fragrance important? If yes, why do you think we care so much about it?

 

Anatole:

Maybe it reminds us that we are human, (and sometimes animals, that’s why I love animal notes). It can be a work of art and for people with an artistic mind, that can be a way to express their creativity.

The sense of smell is linked to our limbic system, one of the primal brains, and as though, to our emotions, and memories. Smelling is instinctive. And fragrance makes beauty out of something animal and instinctive and creates memories that we can cherish for years.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Who or what inspired you to become a perfumer?

 

Anatole:

It started as a hobby, and when I saw the enthusiasm of afficionados and perfume lovers, friends and blogers for what I was carfting, I decided to go further and create my own brand reflecting my training as a self-taught perfumer.

But the truth is I’ve always been obsessed by smell and couldn’t find any wearable stuff for many years when I only know mainstream perfumery. Then I discovered Lutens, L’Artisan Parfumeur and many others “different” brands and later all the history of perfumery. I was collecting old and often unknown beauties (the old Patou’s, Guerlain of course, Coty..

 

 

Bare & Bond:

What do you think makes your brand special or unique?

 

Anatole:

I’m passionate about sharing my passion for beautiful scents with passionate people. I’m the nose, and I almost do everything by hand. I call this making art with heart.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Describe your brand’s perfume personality or style in 3 words

 

Anatole:

Passionate, authentic, wild

 

 

Bare & Bond:

What has been the most exciting moment in your perfume career?

 

Anatole:

Now, it’s always now. Working on the next one. Creating. Crafting. Being inspired.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

What has been the toughest moment in your perfume career?

 

Anatole:

Realizing that it’s a tough commercial world and you have to learn some much more than just creating beautiful scents to survive on the market as an independent niche perfume brand. Finding the balance between listening to trends, and what customers want without selling your soul to the market, and lose your authenticity.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Are there any irritating beliefs about perfume that you wish would just go away?

 

Anatole:

It’s all-natural. No, it’s not. And people who sell you this often lies. Perfumers and brands missed the point when they hid that we’re using synthetics and chemicals when creating. Now it has created suspicion and fear in people’s minds.

I’m open and share often some synthetic materials with my followers because some are really great and valuable to know.

 

 

Bare & Bond:

Finally, what advice do you have for people looking for a new fragrance or a signature scent?

 

Anatole:

Take your time. Never choose by the name, the advice, the first 30 seconds.. Wear it a few times, forget it, and when it comes with a whiff to your nose and each time you feel enchanted and raveled. Then maybe it’s the one. It’s like a love story, you want to learn to know each other.

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